100 Grails from the Best Menswear Designers Working Today

Lynne M. Centeno

In dropping our first-ever Quality List, we brought together 50 labels and designers who, in our estimation, are committed to making—and selling—clothes the right way: with exquisite craftsmanship, singular vision, enduring quality (of course), and higher ideals in service of sustainability and permanence. We also espoused a shopping mantra we’re holding ourselves to: buy better, buy less. So no, don’t throw away everything in your closet that isn’t one of those 50 brands, please. But if you’re in the market for something—whether it’s a tee or a suit—these 100 pieces are some of our favorites, from the 50 brands we back (and wear) wholeheartedly.

Martine Rose

The Global Queen of Cool

Her square-toe stomper boots, jumbo loafers, and big ol’ blazers have influenced every emerging designer out there (and reveal her background as a menswear consultant to Balenciaga design chief Demna Gvasalia). But she operates with an under-the-radar cool, always from a place of warmth and authenticity that reflects her genuine love of rave culture and London’s legendary freak-fashion contingent.  —Rachel Tashjian

Martine Rose Roxy croc effect loafers

Martine Rose’s signature shoe.

Martine Rose intarsia-knit polo shirt

With Martine Rose, it’s perfection you expect, and it’s perfection you get.

Loewe

A Homespun Take on LVMH Luxury

Since becoming the creative director of Loewe in 2013, Jonathan Anderson has led the charge in decentralizing luxury from its Italian and French perches to a broad appreciation of global craft. The fall collection is a pansexual’s dream wardrobe, like something pulled from a bon vivant grandma’s overstuffed steamship trunk. —Rachel Tashjian

Loewe Scarf coat in wool jacquard

Anderson is the master of the elegant under-statement coat. Here’s the perfect example.

Loewe Goose oversize shirt in viscose

The paragon of Jonathan Anderson’s elegant, bizarro sense of humor.

Giorgio Armani

Effortless Perfection

In the work-from-home era, Armani’s iconic slouchy, voluminous post–power suit has never looked more enticing. But even when you’re opting for something from the label that’s more low-key and Zoom-ready, you still get Mr. Armani unmatchable ability to make you feel like a powerhouse.

Giorgio Armani Crinkled cupro drawstring trousers

A key cheat code for getting dressed these days? Trousers that are just as comfortable as sweats.

Giorgio Armani Silk and cotton sweater

Dress like the designer himself in a crisp yet supple navy crewneck sweater.

Bode

Making the Old New

Designer Emily Adams Bode has steadily expanded her purview in the past four years since she launched her debut collection made entirely using reclaimed fabrics. Still, every Bode garment, whether rugby shorts made from African country cloth or a crocheted tank top, celebrates and dignifies the traditional crafts from around the world that have been steadily eroded by the modern fashion system. —Samuel Hine

Bode crochet overshirt

What started as a collection of one-of-a-kind quilted jackets has since exploded into a universe of beautiful artisanally-made menswear, which includes this excellent hand-crocheted overshirt.

Bode cords trousers

The coolest gift in the world might just be Bode custom corduroy trousers, which the Bode team emblazons with meaningful mementos, names, and places based on a personal interview.

RTH

A Universal Approach to Style

“When I think of quality, there’s a level of service that it provides. Even if an item is made with great materials and at a prestigious factory, it doesn’t mean you’re going to want that thing three months after you buy it. It just has to serve you well.” —René Holguin, founder an designer of RTH

RTH Big Love knot necklace

RTH founder and designer René Holguin built his brand on what he calls “global truths.” He outlined these in a recent phone call: “a white shirt, blue jeans, a beaded necklace, embroidery, perforations—every culture has its version of those things,” he said. Essential to culture and RTH, this beaded necklace will also be essential to your next fit.

RTH O-Ring belt

The best way to shop RTH is to go in-person to the Los Angeles store and let the vibes whisk you up in their tides. When that’s out of the question, though, you can still get one of RTH’s signature, long and looping O-ring belts online.

Raf Simons

The Bleeding Edge of Menswear for Two Decades and Counting

Die-hard Raf Simons fans read his collections like books, which consistently highlight the appealing swagger of disaffected youth. But Simons isn’t designing a uniform for truants, anarchists, and delinquents; he’s appropriating their indifference to taste—good and bad, high and low—and capturing their inherent propensity for beauty. —Noah Johnson

Raf Simons Striped oversized open-knit sweater

Raf Simons is practically synonymous with oversized knits. This one shows the vulnerability inherent in his work, too.

Raf Simons Notched-heel zipped leather boots

Raf Simons changed the sneaker game with his Adidas collab in 2013. Now he’s changing it again with this high-tech sneaker boot. A future grail.

Patagonia

Outdoors, Activism, Irresistible Shorts

There are the unbeatable and practically indestructible Retro-X fleece jackets and versatile Baggies shorts. There’s the romantic legacy of a brand built by a group of roving dirtbag climbers in the ’70s—an era when spending one’s 20s living in a van was aspirational. And there’s the fact that Patagonia sued President Trump for shrinking two national monuments in Utah. Looked at a certain way, Patagonia is not a clothing company at all but a pioneering environmentalist organization funded by an extremely well-developed apparel line. —Samuel Hine

Patagonia Retro-X fleece jacket

With a perfect aubergine shade, this Retro-X has the makings of a future collector’s item.

Patagonia Baggies shorts

Like any truly classic piece of design, the Patagonia Baggies have transcended their original purpose to become a fashion symbol the world over.

A. Sauvage

Made-to-Measure Heaven

Without fail, A. Sauvage cooks up the most elevating, badass suits on planet Earth. Each piece is handmade in Italy—and surpasses the standards of even the snobbiest suit enthusiast. But the attitude and feel, as seen here on Adrien and friends of the house, is unabashed, beatnik, and cool. —Mark Anthony Green

A. Sauvage made-to-measure suit

Adrien Sauvage’s made-to-measure, Italian-crafted tailored wear ranks among the sexiest, louchest, red-carpet-owning garms on earth.

A. Sauvage dinner jacket

Hard to imagine a dinner jacket more perfectly suited to our times than this heavenly shawl lapel robe.

Dior

Street Culture Transposed Onto High Fashion

“I know streetwear is a dirty word now, but if you look at [Dior Men’s creative director Kim Jones’] early collections, he lives that language. When you are authentic, you just do your work and you just keep an ear to the ground. He sees what’s happening before it’s going to blow up in a mainstream way. When you are in the culture, you’re of the culture.” —Honey Dijon, DJ, fashion icon, and Dior collaborator on Dior Men’s creative director Kim Jones

Dior and Shawn throw blanket

The utlimate Dior experience is Kim Jones’s exquisite tailoring. But this blanket, made in collaboration with Shawn Stussy for pre-fall, is an epic memento of one of the year’s most rad collaborations, and of Jones’s deep relationship to street culture.

Dior jacket with saddle pocket

A streetwear icon with a couturier’s hand, Kim Jones creates some of the most beautiful jackets on the planet. This one has the house’s siganture shape with deluxe, Jones-only details, like a saddle pocket on the sleeve.

Brunello Cucinelli

The Italian Fashion Philosopher

Brunello Cucinelli’s achingly beautiful flannel blazers and heavenly white shirts are manufactured by people who are paid higher wages than the industry standard, who are provided home-cooked three-course lunches, who have complete access to a library full of Cucinelli’s favorite philosophical texts. It all goes down in Solomeo, the medieval Italian village that serves as the hub of his humanistic experiment. —Samuel Hine

Brunello Cucinelli corudroy coat

Heaven on earth—or at least total sartorial enlightenment—can be found inside a Brunello Cucinelli corduroy coat.

Brunello Cucinelli single breasted blazer

All clothes should be as smart, easy, and unpretentious as this Brunello Cucinelli blazer.

Thom Browne

The Freaky Tailor

“I relate to Thom Browne because taking a classical form and injecting myself into it in a way that feels forward-looking is largely what I try to do with my music. To Thom Browne’s spring 2020 show in Paris, I wore a long black skirt, boots with a really thick heel, and a tank top, and I’ve never been so comfortable. It’s super radical to me to see basketball players holding Thom Browne bags and wearing Thom Browne skirts. I think it’s very futuristic.” —Moses Sumney, musician

Thom Browne twill suit

The classic shrunken Thom Browne suit remains as relevant and refined today as it was in 2001.

Thom Browne pleated skirt

Thom Browne has been doing the proper tailored kilt for years. We say: get on board now or get left behind.

Supreme

Still the Coolest Name in Streetwear

When James Jebbia launched Supreme in 1994, he essentially invented the idea of premium streetwear. Supreme is the rare example of a company that still appeals to its core customer—thanks to a skate team that includes legends like Mark Gonzales and young stars like Tyshawn Jones—while becoming a global fashion phenomenon with an entire hype economy all its own. Today, Supreme has a billion-dollar valuation, but Jebbia and company still do things the way they have since day one on Lafayette. —Noah Johnson

Supreme/Vanson Leathers Worn Leather Jacket

The box logo hoodies and sneaker collabs get all the attention from hypebeasts, but it’s the stuff that doesn’t sell out instantly —like this epic lavender leather bomber—where Supreme truly sings.

Supreme Penguins Rayon short sleeve shirt

Nobody does weirdo graphic button-ups better than Supreme.

Issey Miyake

It’s Gotta Be the Pleats

“Issey Miyake’s famous signature pleats are one of fashion’s greatest innovations. They are like origami meets ready-to-wear: They never lose their shape, they seldom need a wash, and they are impossibly, gloriously comfortable. During our collective period of home confinement, I parted ways with anything that felt too tight or too pristine for me to wear comfortably. The Issey stuff—overalls, dress shirts, cropped trousers, and a blazer—all gets to stay.” —Phillip Picardi, GQ grooming columnist

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Technical-pleated straight-leg trousers

Ever since Miyake debuted his trademark pleats in the late ’80s, they’ve remained one of the most universally flattering and instantly recognizable motifs in all of fashion.

Issey Miyake Men Crinkled single-breasted down-filled shell blazer

Almost 40 years into his legendary run, Issey Miyake is still finding new, alluring ways to experiment with texture.

Sid Mashburn

The Local Clothier Who Cares

Sid Mashburn’s easy-wearing suits, “not too skinny, not too fat” ties, and English-made dress shoes are among the finest you’ll find on this side of the Atlantic—and the best value. To reinforce his notion that the quality of his service is as important as the cut of his suits, Sid kept some of his closed-for-the-pandemic stores staffed on the off-off-off chance that some poor groom-to-be, having decided to carry on with his wedding plans, might need a last-minute tailoring job. That is the Mashburn way: The clothes, of course, are great. But the experience—before the pandemic, during it, and most certainly once it’s over—is even better. —Sam Schube

Sid Mashburn Playboy chukka boot

Perhaps the archetypal Sid piece: a boot that’ll make your squarest suits cool, and your sloppiest fits sharp.

Sid Mashburn Kincaid No. 3 suit

Bob Dylan, Marcello Mastroianni, and Rosewood-era Kanye West all lay claim to the iconic black suit. In Sid Mashburn’s world, you can borrow a little bit from each of them.

Levi’s

The First and Last Name in Denim

“I love the way Levi’s wear in over time. They look great new. And if you don’t wash them, and you dry-clean them a couple of times a year, and then you just wear them, they fall apart in the most beautiful way. They get rips, they start fitting to your body, and the denim patinas. To me it’s a beautiful process.” —Tremaine Emory of Denim Tears and No Vacancy Inn

Levi’s 501 jeans

The 501 remains the best cut of jean known to man—and the famous Levi’s quality endures to this day.

Denim Tears x Levi’s x No Vacany Inn jeans

Tremaine Emory collaborated with Levi’s on a capsule collection as part of a project exploring the link between cotton and slavery in the American south. The collab included vintage 501s screenprinted with cotton wreaths, which are now part of the activist-fashion canon.

Louis Vuitton

French Luxury Gets an Internet-Era Overhaul

“I want to urge the industry not to just focus on easy-to-sell garments that we know work commercially but to foster new territories by deprogramming our minds from the images of obsolescence that lead to overload, overproduction, and waste. How can my design impact the future, create a new qualitative narrative for generations to come? How do I create opportunities and a road map for those that will follow me, open doors, and expand new territories to redefine pre-existing notions? Time is what matters more than ever: claiming it, owning it, and making the best of it. As a designer, you aim to create the world you want to see, and I want my design to serve my community.” —Virgil Abloh, men’s artistic director for Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Embossed Three-Button Clouds Jacket

Since taking the reins at Louis Vuitton in 2018, Virgil Abloh has worked tirelessly to expand the idea of what Parisian luxury can be—and that now includes Instagram-ready statement suits like this one.

Louis Vuitton Keepall 55 Bandoulière

Louis Vuitton have been the toast of the luggage game for 166 years, and their iconic monogrammed bags should theoretically last you at least that long.

Jan-Jan Van Essche

The Shaman of Slow Fashion

Jan-Jan himself is a tea-sipping gentleperson from Antwerp. He makes the patterns for his pieces by folding magical, soulful fabrics into a shirt, pants, or a kimono-like jacket, creating as few seams and cuttings (read: waste) as possible. When I put his future-primitive clothing on, it hangs off my frame—the opposite of a Western-style suit, which exaggerates and constricts—leaving room to do future-primitive things like, say, stir a communal pot of food or fold my legs for meditation. I can’t yet tell whether 2020 is going to yield the apocalypse or the ascension. Either way, I’ll be dressed for it. —Will Welch

Jan-Jan Van Essche Black Brushed Linen trousers

Sweatpant-level comfort, work pant-esque utility, dress pant-level elegance.

Jan-Jan Van Essche Striped Organic Cotton tunic

Jan-Jan Van Essche’s flowy, soulful, stripped-down garms are a balm for our troubled times.

Bottega Veneta

Millennial Fashion From an Old World House

At designer Daniel Lee’s Bottega, the clothes, not the universe around the clothes, create the fantasy. And the fantasy is built on beefy proportions, kinky cutouts, and the uncompromising commitment to beautiful fabrics and innovative use of the house’s famous woven intrecciato. Judging by its recent popularity with elite dressers like Rihanna and Dev Hynes, Lee’s work has captured a moment in style and forced us to reconsider how designers break through the noise in 2020. —Samuel Hine

Bottega Veneta Slip On

Daniel Lee and his esoteric accessories—like these bulbous slip-on booties—have turned Bottega Veneta into one of the most interesting and unexpected brands in menswear.

Bottega Veneta vest

You know Bottega Veneta’s woven leather wallets. But the brand’s woven down vests make for one of the coolest statement pieces of the season.

Ralph Lauren

A Brand Built for a Lifetime

Ralph Lauren—the brand, the designer, the whole Ralph world—has always been the pinnacle of fashion for me. I remember drooling over Ralph Lauren’s iconic ad campaigns in magazines I read while growing up in Springfield, Virginia. And even though, over the years, my style has evolved beyond the preppy phase, Ralph is still life today: a single-breasted herringbone blazer, a striped silk blouse, perfectly cut white trousers (a holy grail if you ask me!). Ralph remains a reliable go-to—an increasingly rare thing in fashion these days. —Nikki Ogunnaike

Ralph Lauren Fair Isle sweater vest

The sweater vest: unsung hero of wardrobe staples.

Ralph Lauren handmade cashmere sport coat

A piece you’ll hand down to future generations.

Our Legacy

Setting the Tone for Global Menswear

Founders Jockum Hallin and Christopher Nying ushered in the wild-style era with increasingly wavy prints and psychedelic knits and then predicted our genderless present via delicate lace shirts and Cuban-heel boots. Plus, the label has used only ethically sourced textiles from the jump, and for the past four years it has been upcycling the leftover scraps of those same fabrics into one-of-a-kind grails through its super-coveted Work Shop program. —Yang-Yi Goh

Our Legacy Black Tie Dye Poplin shirt

Our Legacy still make the note-perfect oxford button-downs they made their names on in the late aughts, but lately they’ve been more interested in distorting the form with gauzy lace and moody dip-dyes.

Our Legacy V-Neck Raglan Greenland Stripe sweater

If you don’t have one of Our Legacy’s elite knits in your rotation—like this chunky, exploded Fair Isle beaut—you’re doing fall wrong.

Celine

The One-Man Barometer of Cool

Over the course of a two-decade-long career, Hedi Slimane has harnessed the energy of youth style subcultures to intoxicating effect. The through line—besides a devotion to rail-thin cuts—is Slimane’s commitment to achingly pure design and construction. There are no tricks or gimmicks in Slimane’s world. In fact, Celine clothes and accessories are as performance-built as anything with a Swoosh on it, but the performance in this case is closing down Lucien or Café de Flore—and looking outrageously, almost impossibly cool in the process. —Samuel Hine

Celine studded boot

Hedi Slimane is Hedi Slimane because of his uncompromising vision, which is why true Celine-heads will be sliding into these 85-mm heeled boots this fall.

Celine Dylan flared jeans

Slimane is a proven hitmaker, and with this funky flared silhouette he’s created menswear’s latest and greatest It jean.

Ziggy Chen

Old World Technique by a New World Visionary

The sublime designs of Shanghainese designer Ziggy Chen are timeless, not just in that they feel disconnected from modern trends but in that they literally look like they could be from hundreds of years ago. His construction process is unique, using traditional Chinese and Western sewing techniques he learned from studying antique clothing, resulting in pieces that look worn-in yet also totally fresh. —Rachel Tashjian

Ziggy Chen asymmetric light-wash shirt

Ziggy Chen makes his clothes with techniques used to make traditional Chinese clothing during the 19th century. This gorgeous shirt at once looks timeless and speaks to the history of Chinese fashion.

Ziggy Chen long cape scarf

A scarf in mixed prints that speaks to Chen’s impeccable ability to harmonize with fabric.

Hermès

The O.G. Old World Artisans

Since its founding in 1837 as a humble harness maker, Hermès has employed skilled craftspeople to produce its vast array of quietly exquisite goods. Most of Hermès’s overall manufacturing occurs in its 43 specialized workshops across France. The gloves come from the commune of Saint-Junien; those legendary silk scarves are printed near Lyon. That devotion to craft is what has lent men’s artistic director Véronique Nichanian the confidence to dream up some of the most refined and understatedly elegant menswear collections for over three decades and counting. —Yang-Yi Goh

Hermès La Danse des Amazones scarf

Hermès Reversible hooded sweater

Only Hermès menswear wizard Véronique Nichanian could make a reversible hoodie out of leather and cashmere feel like the most low-key and natural thing in the world.

Fear Of God

A Holistic Approach to Style

“I would argue that Fear of God’s Jerry Lorenzo is making high fashion and it’s only called streetwear because he’s Black and it’s been made in America. I’ve always been really impressed with his attention to detail in the kind of fabrics he uses. The construction has always been incredible, especially because most of the product has been made in L.A. Some people argue that part of being sustainable isn’t just about using organic cottons. It’s about not filling the world and the landfills with your shit. Jerry’s direct-to-consumer business model and no seasonal collections: That is all him. I’ve worked in this business for 25 years. I don’t know anybody else who did it like that.” —Union L.A. owner Chris Gibbs

Fear of God relaxed sweatpant

Before he reimagined tailoring through his latest Fear of God collection and a major collaboration with Zegna, Jerry Lorenzo made his name on advanced sweats like these: smooth and slouchy, with a lengthy canvas drawstring and bungee cords at the cuffs.

Fear of God leather-trimmed suede sneakers

These Italian-made kicks might be the purest realization of Lorenzo’s M.O.: the most ubiquitous Californian skate shoes around flipped into a luxury item through lush suede and leather, beefed-up soles, an understated colorway, and FoG’s signature toggles on the laces.

Prada

The Gold Standard of High Fashion

“When I started buying more Prada a few years ago, I was growing and I wanted to dress like a man. What better brand to help me do that? Prada has always embodied simplicity but still keeps it classy—simple but really good garments. When we were deep in quarantine, I was like, ‘Yo, I just want to go to the Prada store. Y’all can keep everything else closed, just please open up the Prada stores—that’s it.’ I go back so much I feel like I live at Prada. Go to Rodeo or the stores in New York and ask about me and my card, they’ll tell you.” —A$AP Nast

Prada Short-sleeved heavy cotton shirt

Prada balances a split personality better than practically any other brand in existence. It supplies world-class essentials and hotter-than-hot trend pieces in equal measure. This wacky, scene-stealing camp-collar shirt falls firmly into the latter category.

Prada Nylon puffer jacket

Prada’s slick nylon jackets are a favorite of Timothée Chalamet, Frank Ocean, and Willem Dafoe, just to name a few. You too can swish your way to fashion royalty with this classic black jacket.

Rick Owens

The Drapery Demigod

Rick Owens, more so than most designers, has a wildly varying design spectrum. One end consists of monochromatic knits and sweats, perfect for building a uniform and for subtly signaling taste. And on the other end exists a wardrobe for an intergalactic sex ninja whose idea of business casual is metallic flight pants and platform boots. From human backpacks (google it) to some of the most comfortable tees in the world to snow boots that look like a yeti went to fashion school, there’s never a dull moment from Rick. —Mark Anthony Green

Rick Owens Performa Larry shirt

Drapey, shiny, plenty of hardware, looks vaguely like something both a heroin-chic frontman and S&M dungeon master might wear. In other words: prototypical Rick Owens.

Rick Owens Forever Basic sleeveless tee

Nothing speaks to Rick Owens’ dark, moody, artfully exaggerated vision quite like his riffs on the humble T-shirt: elongated and close-fitting, slinky and sheer, often with the sleeves removed—all the better to show off your rockstar-lithe limbs.

Dries Van Noten

Fashion’s Mind Gardener

For more than 30 years, Dries Van Noten has done something singular: make clothes that are unmistakably his own. A Baroque-period painter staring at a musty bowl of fruit would flip their powdered wig if presented with Van Noten’s palette of colors evoking juicy tangerines, earthy mushrooms, over-ripe lemons, freakishly bright blueberries, or iridescent eggplants. Most importantly, Van Noten does not speak in trends. To wear his clothes is to be part of the designer’s exacting, ever evolving, and colorful language. —Cam Wolf

Dries Van Noten Oversized Intarsia Wool Sweater

Verner Panton-esque squiggles and DVN’s floral-mindedness combine in one unbelievable, autumnal sweater.

Dries Van Noten Red Camp Short Sleeve Shirt

This sumptous velvet shirt shows the many ways a rose can show up in the designer’s clothes. In fact, the fabric itself imitates the sensory touch and look of a rose petal.

Craig Green

The Avant-Garde Extraordinaire

Every season since 2012, when Craig Green founded his eponymous label during his final year as a fashion student at Central Saint Martins in London, is essentially built around a simple padded work coat. From there he creates powerful collections that break with convention every chance he gets. Craig Green proposes that clothes can be unusual and extraordinary and appealing in ways that you never imagined. —Noah Johnson

Craig Green Single-breasted quited shell jacket

Core to the Craig Green project is this padded worker’s jacket, which is somehow both utilitarian but futuristic. It’s as if it had been made for some imagined blue-collar worker who calls the moon home.

Craig Green Embroidered Cotton-Jersey T-Shirt

In Craig Green’s universe, even crewnecks get drawstrings. That’s a universe I want to live in.

Tom Ford

Suits, but Sexy

Tom Ford has always embodied unabashed elegance. But his fall 2020 collection was looser, easier, even edgier than ever—some of his best work in years—with its extravagant combinations of jewel-toned pajama trousers and impeccably tailored jackets. You can throw it on and look incredible all day—and, if you’re embodying the Fordian life—all night. —Rachel Tashjian

Tom Ford Vicose wide hem jogger pants

Tom Ford’s Fall 2020 collection—one of his best in years—featured these amazing jewel tone drawstring trousers in multiple colors under giant, thrown-on blazers. WFH or nightclub perfection.

Tom Ford Leather Sartorial jacket

This is the daddy of daddy jackets.

A-Cold-Wall

Clothing as Industrial Design

“With A-Cold-Wall, I’m making sure that when we’re designing a product, it’s filled with a purpose and intent, to be an item of service. The essential element of the brand is this approach to not pander to trends and think about our clothes the way an industrial-design company thinks about its products. Quality represents information. Information in terms of intelligence and purpose behind what’s being proposed. It’s something that you can’t compromise—it’s more a philosophy.” —Samuel Ross, founder and creative director

A-COLD-WALL* Black Painted Long Sleeve T-Shirt

One of designer Samuel Ross’s original touchpoints for A-Cold-Wall was a ceramics company based in Kyoto that made imperfect and deeply personal pieces on a large scale. Ross always strives to find a way to make his pieces feel individualized in that way, experimenting with dye treatments and different forms of painting on his garments.

A-COLD-WALL* Rhombus Shell Blazer

Ross works with specialty Italian mills to develop his nylon and applies it everywhere he can, turning classic items like the blazer into something sporty and modern.

Missoni

The First Family of Italian Knitwear

No one else can do knitwear like Missoni. Seemingly hundreds of colors of thread are in one zigzag sweater—it’s amazing. The colors are orgasmic. The world of Missoni is also about family and togetherness. It’s been a family-run business since it was started in the ’50s, and [creative director and president] Angela Missoni has preserved her parents’ vision. When you see a Missoni piece, you know exactly what it is. —Mobolaji Dawodu

Missoni crew neck turtleneck

There are a lot of turtlenecks out there this fall, but only one that captures the brilliance of a late-summer sunset.

Missoni leather jacket

Get you a brand that can do both! Famous knitwear, meet cool guy leather jacket.

Arc’teryx

The Tesla of Gorpcore

Arc’teryx’s state-of-the-art ARC’One facility, tucked away in a nondescript Vancouver suburb, is a veritable Wonka factory of high-performance-sportswear innovation. Advanced prototypes are torn down and reassembled to uncover manufacturing efficiencies, Alpha SV climbing jackets earn their warranties via an over-four-hour-long construction process that involves 190 meticulous operations. It’s that obsession with lasting perfection and experimentation that has made believers out of folks as disparate as ice-climbing legend Will Gadd and all-around legend Frank Ocean. —Yang-Yi Goh

Arc’teryx Bird Head Toque

Frank Ocean sporting this techy Arc’teryx beanie in the front row at Paris Fashion Week last year was a major coming-out-party moment for the gorpcore movement.

Arc’teryx Alpha SV Jacket

Arc’teryx’s advanced jackets are engineered to last a lifetime and survive the most severe conditions imaginable. The fact that they’re also head-turningly handsome is just a happy coincidence.

Drake’s

The Haberdashery Revived

In the midst of a pandemic that’s kept our butts in sweatpants on the couch and for an endless blur of months, no other brand makes getting dressed up as exciting as the British haberdashery. The brand’s ties are habitats for towering giraffe necks and ambling pandas. Drake’s ornate pocket squares could be popped into a frame and hung on a wall. And if you give a man a tie and a pocket square, he’s going to need a suit—which Drake’s makes in Italy using relaxed shapes and fabrics like corduroy and linen. The brand is perfectly positioned for this moment: In the absence of needing to wear a suit, shouldn’t getting to wear one just be fun as hell? —Cam Wolf

Drake’s Navy and Yellow Giraffe Print Silk Tie

A tie! In this economy? When it’s as fun as this one—with an African safari’s worth of giraffes lazing across it—you betcha.

Drake’s Navy Irish Linen Games Blazer

Practically engineered for this moment when the top half is the only one you need to dress up.

Kapital

Masterful Japanese Maximalism

Designer Kiro Hirata has an unparalleled knack for creating irreverent and sometimes absurd apparel that can be surprising and is always ridiculously cool—overshirts sized up 10 times into smock-like layers, hoodies adorned with an abundance of tactical pockets and pouches, skeleton-embroidered denim, and, of course, those irresistible smiley-face ragg socks. But the secret to Kapital’s global recognition lies within the Kojima-based production facilities, which are more like laboratories than ateliers. There, dye techniques and intensely detailed handwork are tested and sampled hundreds of times for the development of a single piece. —Noah Johnson

Kapital Embroidered Denim Jacket

Smile, you’re wearing Kapital. Designer Kiro Hirata embraces the absurd in all of his designs—whether that’s maxed-out proportions or recurring smiley faces—and often releases smile-producing pieces like this denim jacket.

Kapital High Waist NIME pants

The writer David Sedaris once said that clothes from Kapital “appear to have been previously worn, perhaps by someone who was shot or stabbed and then thrown off a boat.” Kapital’s distressing is peerless.

Ermenegildo Zegna

Historic House, Futuristic Silhouettes

In his tailored-clothing laboratory at 110-year-old Ermenegildo Zegna, artistic director Alessandro Sartori is cooking up the suit silhouettes of the future. And with the resources of one of the largest fabric companies at his disposal, Sartori he’s simultaneously developing suits made from groundbreaking fabrics.

Fear of God Exclusively for Ermenegildo Zegna wool jacket

Pre-order a soon to be collector’s item from this collaboration between Zegna Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori and Fear of God Founder Jerry Lorenzo.

Fear of God Exclusively for Ermenegildo Zegna wool trousers

Pants so good you’ll have no choice but to get dressed again

Telfar

Downtown Gone Global

Telfar is one of the smallest brands on this list, but Telfar Clemens has been one of the most exciting and original independent designers on the planet since he launched his brand in 2004 at the age of 18. He’s spent years working against the grain of the fashion establishment, building a non-gendered, all-inclusive line for anyone who felt ignored by the mainstream. And all the while, Telfar’s unisex and surprisingly wearable collection—which draws equally from American westernwear and Renaissance Florence alike—has only gotten more intriguing. —Samuel Hine

Telfar graphic hoodie

The Telfar Shopping Bag is a certified smash, but the brand’s provocative clothing—this print is adapted from a Harlem Renaissance-era illustration—should not be slept on.

Telfar half-tank sweater

Telfar’s FW20 collection, which was made in Italy and debuted in Florence, features the brand’s asymmetric tank top rendered in a wool-cashmere knit.

Yohji Yamamoto

The Cerebral Tailor

With its soothing inky-black silhouettes, Yohji Yamamoto’s clothing is often described as poetry. His playful approach to draping, economic ornamentation, and deconstruction is as strong in this collection as it was when he shocked Paris in 1981 with his first collection: ski suit overalls with roguish panache, military coats studded with talismanic toggles, and scarves of chain and silk that swing with equal ease. Now, when menswear overvalues the flex, Yamamoto is for those who wear clothes to deeply savor the perfect sweetness of true individuality. —Rachel Tashjian

Yohji Yamamoto Serge Milled fedora

Yohji Yamamoto’s own style signature is an inky black hat.

Yohji Yamamoto Gabardine Riversible jacket

A perfect jacket from the master of cerebral tailoring.

Pyer Moss

American Fashion Reinvented

Over the past three years, Pyer Moss founder Kerby Jean-Raymond has become one of the fashion industry’s most essential voices, pushing designers to produce less, editors to pay closer attention to Black designers, industry associations to invest in diverse talents, and younger designers to take control of their businesses. His image of colloquial Blackness has been nothing short of revolutionary. —Rachel Tashjian

Pyer Moss nylon bomber jacket

The perfect cropped puffer in a punched up hue to make any New York street a runway–that’s the secret sauce of Pyer Moss.

Pyer Moss mock neck long sleeve tee

The mock neck is a Pyer Moss staple; this collection includes graphics of Sister Rosetta Tharpe, the creator of rock ‘n roll.

Kenneth Ize

Taking Nigerian Fashion Global

Kenneth was born in Lagos and raised mostly in Austria. He started his brand in 2013 to support local Nigerian craftsmanship, because the artisans who make traditional textiles are disappearing. And you can see the craftsmanship immediately in coats tailored out of colorful plaid aso-oke fabric, or in the caftans made with adire, an indigo-dyed cloth that’s been made in Nigeria for centuries. Kenneth Ize is about more than the colors and the shapes. It’s about a designer who is bringing Nigerian traditions onto a global stage. —Mobolaji Dawodu

Kenneth Ize gingham print blazer

Kenneth Ize uses his brand to support traditional Nigerian craft, which he calls on to stunning effect with this technicolor aso-oke fabric blazer.

Kenneth Ize gingham print trousers

Kenneth Ize’s command of color, texture, and cut makes him the most exciting name in tailoring right now.

Gucci

Pushing Italian Luxury Into the Future

“I’m a test site for Gucci quality. It has been very loyal and faithful and has taken the wear and tear. The woven fabrics that they’re doing now are amazing. Gucci led the charge on that. And the detailed appliqués and embellishments. Gucci led the way with that. And it’s one thing to create something elegant, but it’s another to use it in a way to make a social statement as well. So what creative director Alessandro Michele did was really groundbreaking because he blurred the gender line. That’s a big deal.” —Dapper Dan, designer and Gucci partner

Gucci Panelled Logo-Intarsia Wool and Alpaca-Blend Cardigan

Gucci collaborator Dapper Dan says the more of Gucci’s “G” logos you have on you, the better. Going by that criteria, this cardigan covered in the brand’s monogram must be the best.

Gucci Snake Ace embroidered leather sneakers

Sneakers aren’t going anywhere. The Ace is Gucci’s staple footwear design—combining the relaxed low-top sneaker with its big, maximalist, sometimes-serpentine designs.

Saint Laurent

The Pinnacle of Parisian Chic

It’s been only two years since Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello debuted his first menswear collection for the historic house, but already the nimble designer has proved that he knows exactly what his customer covets: pieces that blend the old SL (back when it was still YSL) with the rock-and-roll edge the brand has recently become known for. Suede jackets, dark skinny jeans, sharp blazers, and silk blouses (unbuttoned to the navel) hark back to the company’s heritage while also sending it in a fresh direction. —Nikki Ogunnaike

Saint Laurent wool turtleneck sweater

In these trying times a chunky knit you can wear 3 times a week is a safe and sound investment.

Saint Laurent Spotted Lavallière-neck shirt

Channel your inner Mick Jagger with a red silky shirt.

Wales Bonner

Where Style and Spirituality Meet

Grace Wales Bonner’s clothes  embody a serene spirituality, which has helped her hone a vision of delicate masculine beauty that has made her, at 29, an icon to an emerging generation of global Black designers. For fall she looked to her own family history, including her grandfather’s arrival in England from Jamaica in the 1950s and her father’s role in the reggae scene of the ’70s, striking a more personal note. She is slyly one of menswear’s best tailors, too, establishing in this collection her highly appealing signature suiting silhouette: a sharp hand with jackets and a loose approach to trousers. —Rachel Tashjian

Grace Wales Bonner Soul double-breasted checked wool blazer

Probably the most beautiful jacket in the world. Skillyfully oversized. Beautifully soft. Quintessential Grace.

Grace Wales Bonner Goto colour-block roll-neck ribbed sweater

Wear it under a suit, or with denim cutoffs, or pajama pants.

Engineered Garments

New York Tough

New York City is undoubtedly a fashion capital, but how many brands make their clothes there? Engineered Garments has kept the “Made in New York” tags on almost every piece it’s made since Daiki Suzuki founded the brand in 1999, ensuring a superior product and fostering a sense of community among designers, sewers, and regular customers. EG also happens to put out collections that are consistently a step or two ahead of the fashion masses. While trends come and go—big pants get skinny then big again; workwear morphs into leisurewear and back, into something like work-leisure—EG remains unperturbed, never chasing, always leading. —Noah Johnson

Engineered Garments banded collar long shirt

The ideal Engineered Garments piece means you’re likely to be mistaken for both an old man in his pajamas and a turn-of-the-century member of the French Foreign Legion. This one fits the bill.

Engineered Garments Knit Patchwork Jog pant

Treating serious wintry fabrics with a sense of humor is a time-tested EG signature.

Nicholas Daley

The Rhythm of Modern Menswear

“Nicholas is very hands-on with every aspect of the business—from the look and what the season’s going to be to working with the material, doing the historical research, making sure the whole choreography of the shows is right. It’s not that he just makes clothes and there’s a vague idea of what it’s about. You feel like there’s a real underlying message and a continuity between everything that he does.” —Shabaka Hutchings, South London Jazz musician and Nicholas Daley collaborator

Nicholas Daley three pocket cardigan

Fall 2020 was the season Nicholas Daley really freaked it, blending his obsession with Japanese construction and British fabrics into something ecstatic. This beautiful cardigan jacket represents the essence of that collection; we recommend the matching pants, too.

Nicholas Daley Crochette neck pouch

No Nicholas Daley fit is complete without the designer’s pouch–a talismanic but functional piece of jewelry.

Dolce & Gabbana

The Kings of Sharp Suiting

Though the duo are known for over-the-top runway productions in exotic locations, it’s the slick suits that really steal the show. And they’re built out of a perfected sense of tailoring. Some say that to master a craft, you need to put in at least 10,000 hours. Domenico Dolce apprenticed for his tailor father and made his first pair of pants at age six. Now, you do the math.

Dolce & Gabbana velvet loafers

Consider this velvet loafer (complete with quilted-satin lining) your new house shoe.

Dolce & Gabbana Glen plaid wool coat

A classic piece crafted by expert tailors.

Acronym

The Visionary of Techwear

Acronym, the highly advanced and moody outerwear label founded by Errolson Hugh and Michaela Sachenbacher in 1999, is known for wind- and water- and presumably nuclear-fallout-resistant fabrics and funky silhouettes. Hugh’s designs explode conventional ideas of what clothes are meant to do, whether it’s outerwear that opens fully with one short tug thanks to the Escape Zip system, or the built-in Jacket Sling that allows you to wear your jacket on straps like a crossbody bag. Even the most microscopic details feel intensely considered. (That’s what quality is, right? Giving something all the attention in the world.) —Chris Gayomali

Acronym schoeller® Dryskin™ ultrawide drawcord cargo trouser

Versatile, rugged, and designed to be worn every day, Errolson’s P30s are a perfect pair of pants.

Acronym Tec Sys Messenger bag

You can’t go wrong with any of the jackets, but a big-ass Acronym bag—made in collaboration with Berlin-based manufacturer Bagjack—will stay in your rotation for years and years.

Noah

Sportswear With a Purpose

Brendon Babenzien learned plenty from a decade and a half running design for Supreme: how to make some of the coolest clothes on the planet, for starters. He learned the value of applying that know-how to unheralded pieces like cardigans and rugby shirts, too, and of then constructing those clothes unusually well. And when he launched Noah (tentatively in 2002, then for good in 2015), he grounded the brand in his personal values (racial justice, environmental awareness, ethical production) and history (the equally preppy and punky vibes born of a childhood on Long Island). The result was a sort of Patagonia for the downtown set, or maybe a Supreme for the dads who’ve moved on from their younger, gnarlier days. —Sam Schube

Noah cashmere shirt

Noah founder Brendon Babenzien is obsessed in equal measure with developing his own fabrics and tweaking old-school silhouettes. A CPO jacket made out of next-level cashmere hits that Venn diagram perfectly.

Noah paisley pant

Leave it to Noah to prove that even paisley—paisley!—can have attitude.

Evan Kinori

The Old Soul of New Menswear

Evan Kinori makes things slowly, using hard-to-source materials from Japan and Italy and tricky techniques like French seams and single-needle stitching. He produces everything in small, hand-numbered batches, mostly in California, and personally inspects each piece before shipping it from his studio in San Francisco. The result is a kind of invisible meticulousness. Each Evan Kinori collection is a slight refinement of the one prior, featuring new fabrics and a small number of fresh silhouettes. In Kinori’s world things move at a deliberate pace, and there’s no virtue in the new. Quality is proven with time. —Noah Johnson

Evan Kinori Field shirt

Vaguely military, slightly French garbageman, extremely the top part of the only suit you need in 2020.

Evan Kinori single pleat pant

Kinori treats pants the way they deserve to be treated: like architecture, not just the thing for your bottom half. These have weight, and texture, and character, and could plausibly carry their own A24 film.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Nearly a Century of Fashion Breakthroughs

Salvatore Ferragamo creative director Paul Andrew’s vision of luxury for the 100-year-old house centers instead on sartorial staples re-energized for a young fashion fan. Who wants to wear sweatpants, a logo hoodie, or sneakers after seeing Ferragamo’s flattering trousers crafted in dusty shades of napa leather? Or an oversized cotton parka nipped just so at the waist? Andrew has discovered a potent fashion formula befitting the Salvatore Ferragamo name. —Samuel Hine

Salvatore Ferragamo Nappa leather trousers

White leather trousers? Paul Andrew’s vision of luxury has no limits.

Salvatore Ferragamo Loafer with Gancini and stud

The classic Ferragamo bit loafer finds a new voice with a chunky profile and punk-ish hardware.

Marine Serre

Upcycled Optimism

For Marine Serre, sustainable design is a vivacious act of extreme creative courage. She’s innovative and experimental, but her shapes are culled from centuries of fashion history. In short, they look like nothing else. The triumph of her upcycling is that it makes a sartorial statement that the junk, waste, and regrets of the past can be the stuff of a better future, with a new idea of beauty. —Rachel Tashjian

Marine Serre regenerated military trousers

Perfect cargo pants made from regenerated cotton, from her Dune-inspired Fall 2020 collection.

Marine Serre hooded faux-fur jacket

Marine Serre’s upcycled pieces are constructed like couture, but pull equally from activewear and historical fashion. This piece looks like what a medieval knight would wear to an outdoor football game.

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